Friday, January 2, 2009

From Satan's Footprints Part 1

It is said that Allium sativum, aka garlic, sprung up in the left footprint of the Devil as he departed the Garden of Eden. Onions grew in his right print. So, two cure-all plants with antibacterial, antifungal, antiseptic properties sprouted from Satan's footprints. Not to mention their supposed aphrodisiac quality. But, while I appreciate these positive attributes, what I celebrate is their finest feature: edibility.
For giving us two of cooking's most delectable, fundamental, and versatile ingredients, the bad guy deserves a cook's respect. Here's my tribute:

Roasted Garlic Fondue
Serves 4 to 6.

12 oz apple cider
2 tbsp lemon juice
1 tbsp brandy
Generous pinch kosher salt
2 cups Emmental, grated
2 cups Smoked Gouda, grated
1 tbsp plus 1 tsp cornstarch
1 bulb roasted garlic, cloves mashed into paste (see instructions below)
Ground black pepper

Pour cider into small sauce pan or fondue pot, if you have one. Add 1 tablespoon lemon juice, brandy, and salt and bring to simmer over medium heat. Toss cheese with cornstarch in bowl. When cider begins to simmer, gradually add cheese. Stir until all cheese is incorporated, 3-5 minutes. Don’t let it bubble; reduce heat to low if necessary. Mixture is ready when coats back of spoon. Stir in garlic paste and pepper. If cheese is stringy, add some or all remaining lemon juice. Acidity will help break down strings and increase creaminess. Move pot to alcohol warmer, and keep stirring during service. Serve with cubes of hearty bread, sesame grissini (crisp breadsticks), button or cremini mushrooms, blanched asparagus, grape tomatoes, and cubed ring bologna or salami. (Or whatever you wish.)

Above adapted from Alton Brown's recipe.

Instead of Emmental, you could use Gruyere or Appenzeller, but I recommend keeping Gouda in recipe for its smokiness. If you want even more smoky flavor, you could add pinch of smoked paprika. Also, you could probably substitute hard apple cider for regular cider, though I haven’t tried this.

(If you’ve never roasted garlic before, it’s super simple. Cut bulb in half crosswise. Drizzle each half with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Put halves in sealed aluminum foil on top of baking sheet. Roast at 400 degrees for 1 hour. The cloves should squeeze out easily.)

Caprese-Style Pork Chops
Serve 2.

5 tbsp olive oil
4 sun-dried tomatoes, diced
1/2 large ball Mozzarella, grated
2 boneless pork chops (about 1 inch thick)
2 tbsp basil pesto (see instructions below)
Kosher salt and ground black pepper
1/2 cup chicken broth
1/2 cup white wine
Pinch lemon zest



Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Warm 2 tablespoons oil in saute pan over medium heat. Cook tomatoes 2-3 minutes until softened. Transfer to bowl. Add cheese and stir to combine. Cut chops almost in half lengthwise. Don’t cut all the way through; create a pocket. Smear pesto inside pockets. Stuff with tomato and cheese mixture and close pork around stuffing. Season chops with salt and pepper. In bowl combine broth, wine, and zest. Warm 3 tablespoons oil in skillet over medium-high heat. Add pork when pan is hot. Cook 4-5 minutes per side until browned. Transfer pork to foil-lined baking sheet and cook through in oven, 10-12 minutes. Drain off any excess oil, but not bits, from skillet. Add broth mixture to skillet over medium-high heat. Scrape up bits from pan bottom. Reduce by half, 10 minutes. Spoon sauce over pork before serving.

(To make pesto, combine 2 cups fresh basil leaves, 1 cup fresh Italian parsley leaves, 1/4 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, 1/4 cup grated Pecorino Romano, 1/2 cup toasted [watch they don’t burn!] pine nuts, 4 garlic cloves, 1/2 cup olive oil, and salt in food processor or blender. Puree until mixture forms paste.)

"Spaghetti" Aglio e Olio
Serves 2 with enough leftover for tomorrow's lunch (or 4 as side dish).

1 spaghetti squash
1/2 stick unsalted butter
4 cloves garlic, grated or pressed
Kosher salt and ground black pepper
Olive oil, drizzled
Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, sprinkled
Red pepper flakes, sprinkled if desired

Cut squash in half and seed. I recommend nestling squash in dish towel on counter when slicing through it; this prevents slippage. Put halves cut-side down in microwave-safe dish filled with 1/4 cup water. Cover with plastic wrap and microwave for 12-15 minutes until soft. Shred squash with fork when cool enough to handle and set aside. Melt butter in saute pan over low heat. Grate 4 garlic cloves on microplane or use garlic press. Add garlic to melted butter. Cook 3 minutes. Add squash. Season with salt and pepper and cook with garlic butter 5 minutes. Serve drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled liberally with cheese and, for some heat, red pepper flakes.

Onions are up next...

3 comments:

  1. A beautifully written and illustrated view from
    an obvious food devotee. You have lured me in to your "all-consuming obsession"--my senses are piqued for more. I'm anxious to learn what culinary delights will spring forth from Satan's right footprint! Good luck, KFW!!

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  2. Yum and more yum!! I can't wait to try the Roasted Garlic Fondue and everything else, it sounds fabulous!

    Congratulations and thank you for this substantive and lovely site! It's a delicious addition to the food blogosphere.

    Interestingly, we just had spaghetti squash a few days ago and I was puzzling over other ways to prepare it. Our visiting chef baked the whole squash in the oven for just under an hour (first piercing it strategically in a few spots) and the results were stunning and savory. She also added garlic, olive oil, onions and some fresh Italian parsley, if I recall correctly. I'm interested in trying your microwave steam bath approach. Spaghetti squash is a surprising adventure.
    ::

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  3. I love reading about food as much as I enjoy eating and preparing it. Your fresh, seasonal approach mimic my efforts in the kitchen. So happy this blog was recommended to me. I look forward to your posts!

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