Stark Ranting Mad

Last week I read an article in Gourmet that changed my life. I know, I know. Typically somebody'd say that over a piece in the New Yorker or some other elite publication. But, no, this time it was a food magazine. (It often is for me.)

Barry Estabrook writes Gourmet's "Politics of the Plate" series, which usually I find fascinating. This time I found it eye-opening, breath-taking, depressing, and infuriating--in that order. So, at the last stop on the emotional train, I got off feeling really pissed. I need to rant. I didn't want this blog to be a soapbox, but forgive me this one time.

Stop what you're doing and read this.

Pissed off? Good.

Now check out the latest.

Hopeful? Good.

But not good enough. Estabrook says it best...

"In the warm months, the best solution is to follow that old mantra: buy seasonal, local, and small-scale.

"But what about in winter? So far, Whole Foods is the only grocery chain that has signed on to the Coalition of Immokalee Workers (CIW) Campaign for Fair Food, which means that it has promised not to deal with growers who tolerate serious worker abuses and, when buying tomatoes, to a pay a price that supports a living wage.

"When shopping elsewhere, you can take advantage of the fact that fruits and vegetables must be labeled with their country of origin. Most of the fresh tomatoes in supermarkets during winter months come from Florida, where labor conditions are dismal for field workers, or from Mexico, where they are worse, according to a CIW spokesman. One option during these months is to buy locally produced hydroponic greenhouse tomatoes, including cluster tomatoes still attached to the vine. Greenhouse tomatoes are also imported from Mexico, however, so check signage or consult the little stickers often seen on the fruits themselves to determine their source.

"You can also visit the CIW's information-packed website if you are interested in becoming part of the coalition's efforts."

Last Night's Dinner 3

I did it. I made ricotta. All I needed was milk (and the supplies and tools I had on hand from New England CheeseMaking). Yay!

With it I made a rather unconventional shrimp saganaki. Saganaki means "small sagani." (Sagani is the two-handled pan Greeks use to make saganaki dishes, usually served at the table right from the pan to one or two people.) The word also denotes a dish with a spicy tomato sauce topped with feta cheese.

Mine was not traditional for a few reasons. One, I made it in a skillet. Two, I didn't serve it out of the skillet. And, three, which is perhaps the most blasphemous, I didn't use feta. I served it alongside my fresh ricotta.

I apologize to all Greeks, but it was really good. And really easy.




Saganaki-Style Shrimp
Serves 2.

2 tbsp olive oil
1 small yellow onion, diced
28 oz can whole peeled tomatoes, drained and coarsely chopped
Handful kalamata olives, pitted and coarsely chopped
Pinch kosher salt
Pinch ground black pepper
Pinch red pepper flakes
Pinch dried oregano
3/4 lb cooked large shrimp, shelled and deveined

In large skillet, heat oil until shimmering. Cook onion over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add tomatoes, olives, herbs, and spices and cook about 5 minutes. Add shrimp and cook until warmed through, about 3 minutes. Serve with ricotta liberally sprinkled with salt and pepper, crusty bread, and mixed greens salad.


I end this week's post giving credit where it's due--overdue actually. All the images on this blog are courtesy of my husband. Thanks to his mad skills with our camera, KFW's recipes are well illustrated--and nicely, too.

Crying Over Uncurdled Milk

This week's posting was supposed to be about the great mozzarella I made. I was going to post images of the ingredients and process and fantastic final result. Well, my well-laid plans fell flat. Or, rather, they didn't curd. I have no idea what happened. I've made mozzarella before and it came out perfectly fine. The trick is to use pasteurized (not ultra-pasteurized) milk. ("Ultra-pasteurized" refers to milk processed at an extremely high temperature. This denatures the proteins needed for it to come together into cheese.) I did this. So I'm at a loss as to why it didn't firm up. But it doesn't mean I won't make cheese again. Next time I think I'll try my hand at ricotta. At least it's meant to be soft.

If you're interested in making your own cheese, it's quick and easy (when you don't muck it up). Though even if it were arduous, I'd still do it. It's very satisfying and, I think, relaxing. In fact, I find most "urban homesteading" activities centering. If you agree, check out New England CheeseMaking Supply Company, Animal, Vegetable, Miracle, and Homegrown Evolution. If you're rolling on the floor or just rolling your eyes, feel free to skip the suggestions for further reading. No offense taken.